Cross Stitch, The different types of stitch involved

Cross Stitch

Also known as sampler due to the vast number of samplers worked entirely in it. It is probably the best known of all embroidery stitches and can be found in examples of embroidery all over the world. It is a quick and simple stitch to work, especially on even weave fabric or canvas where the number of threads can be counted to keep the size of the stitches even. There are two basic methods for working cross stitch but in both the direction of the top diagonal stitches should all fall the same way, unless the effect in light and shade is desired.

Individual cross stitch is worked as a complete cross before going onto the next one and is best suited to canvas work or for outlining shapes in embroidery. Cross stitch worked in rows is best suited to filling in large areas. Here one row of diagonals is worked in one direction followed by the second row of diagonals, to form the crosses, worked in the opposite direction.

Running

The simplest and most bask of all embroidery stitches. It is made by passing the thread in and out of the fabric at regular intervals making sure that the stitches and the spaces are the same length. Mostly used for fine linear detail.

Holbein

Also known as double running stitch, this is a very old and simple line stitch used a lot in samplers to outline motifs, Its name derives from a particular use of the stitch on shirts, collars and cuffs in the 16th century recorded in portraits by the painter Hans Holbein (1497-1543). The stitch is formed by working a row of even spaced running stitches and the spaces in between are filled in with running stitch on the return journey. This makes an even, linear stitch that is the same on both sides. A variation is to step the stitches to give a zigzag line.

Herringbone and Fancy Herringbone

Herringbone stitch is a simple stitch formed much in the same way as individual cross stitch except that the width of the stitch is always less than the height to form an off-centre cross. Basic herringbone can be used as a foundation for more complex stitches such as fancy herringbone where, after a foundation row of herringbone is worked, small vertical and horizontal cross stitches are worked over the herringbone crosses, and these crosses are then interlaced with a third thread. In this simple manner a seemingly complex and interesting border can be worked.

Stem

This is a simple line stitch used to outline shapes and details. The stitch is worked with a simple forwards and backwards motion along the line to be embroidered. The working thread should be kept to the right of the stitches.

Satin

This is another very old stitch found in embroidery all around the world which can be used as a line stitch or filling stitch. It should always be worked on fabric stretched in an embroidery hoop. It is made up of straight stitches worked side by side and the stitches should always lie evenly and cover the fabric entirely. When it is used as a line stitch it is generally worked at a slight angle to the direction of the line, when used as a filling stitch the whole shape is covered with either vertical or horizontal lines to give an effect of light and shade. Long satin stitches can be difficult to keep even so it is best to use it on small shapes; larger areas can be covered with long and short stitch. This is a variation of satin stitch where the first row of stitches are worked alternately in long and short stitches that follow the outline of the shape to be covered. The rest of the area is covered in satin stitches equal in length to the long stitches.

French Knots

These are small individual stitches mostly used to create texture. Any weight of yarn can be used to give different-sized stitches and the number of twists round the needle can be altered to give a large or small knot. The stitch is worked by bringing the thread through to the right side, inserting just the point of the needle in and out of the fabric where the thread emerges, twisting the yard round the needle two or three times, then inserting the needle back through the same hole. The yard is pulled through the twists to form the knot. It is always easier to work this stitch with the fabric held in a frame and with a little practice even-sized knots can be achieved.

Algerian Eye

This is made by working eight stitches all into a central point as though following the outline of a square. It forms a star-shaped stitch and if the threads are pulled a little more tightly than usual a small hole forms at the centre of each star.

Guilloche

This is a composite stitch made up from three basic stitches to form on interesting border. First two parallel rows of stem stitch are worked, and then three short satin stitches are formed at regular intervals between the rows of stem stitch. These are then interlaced together with a third thread worked in two journeys of alternate semi-circles to form circles in between the satin stitches. A French knot is worked in the centre of each circle.

Couching

This is found mainly on early samplers as couching was used extensively in medieval embroidery to make the best use of precious gold and silver thread. It is a simple method of catching down a metal thread or a much thicker yarn without having to take it through the fabric. The fabric must be held in an embroidery frame. Bring the yarn to be laid down through to the front, then using a much finer matching yarn, catch down the laid thread by using small straight stitches at intervals over the laid thread. When the line or shape that is to be couched is finished the thread is taken back to the wrong side.

Buttonhole and Blanket

These two stitches are worked in exactly the same way: it is the variation in the closeness of the stitches that gives rise to the different names. In blanket stitch a space is left between each upright and in buttonhole stitch they lie next to each other. Both stitches are worked from left to right by working a straight down the fabric and over the working thread, so that a row of vertical stitches are joined together by a looped stitch at the bon As their name suggests both these stitches are often used to finish off raw edges.

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